Battery tools
What size battery do I need?
What size battery covers a 500 W load for 12 hours?
A 500 W average load for 12 hours needs 6.00 kWh delivered at the outlet. Because a battery cannot be fully discharged and the inverter loses energy converting DC to AC, the pack has to be larger: at 90% usable depth of discharge and 92% inverter efficiency you need about 7.25 kWh of nominal capacity. Sizing on the outlet figure alone would leave you roughly 20% short.
Your inputs
Extra energy you want left in the pack when the target hours are up. Applied after the depth-of-discharge limit, not on top of it.
7.2 kWh
of nominal battery capacity
6.00 kWh has to reach your appliances, so the pack must be larger than that
- Load
- 500 W
- Target runtime
- 12 h
- Needed at outlet
- 6.00 kWh
- Nominal needed
- 7.25 kWh
Method
- 0.5 kW × 12 h = 6 kWh needed at the outlet
- 6 kWh ÷ (0.9 usable depth of discharge × 0.92 inverter efficiency) = 7.246 kWh of nominal battery capacity
Assumptions
- Usable depth of discharge 90% and inverter efficiency 92%.
- No reserve held back.
- The load is treated as constant across the whole period.
- No solar or generator recharging during the outage.
- Battery ageing and cold-weather capacity loss are not included.
What can change the result?
- Whether your load average is realistic — most people overestimate it by summing nameplate ratings
- How deeply the system actually allows discharge
- Cold temperatures, which reduce usable capacity
- Any recharging from solar during a daytime outage
Required nominal capacity by load and target hours
| Load profile | Average load | 8 hours | 12 hours | 24 hours |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fridge, freezer and comms only | 250 W | 2.42 kWh | 3.62 kWh | 7.25 kWh |
| Essentials for a small home | 500 W | 4.83 kWh | 7.25 kWh | 14.5 kWh |
| Essentials for a typical family home | 690 W | 6.67 kWh | 10.00 kWh | 20.0 kWh |
| Essentials plus heating or cooling | 1500 W | 14.5 kWh | 21.7 kWh | 43.5 kWh |
Getting the load figure right matters more than the maths
The arithmetic here is trivial; the input is not. Most oversizing comes from adding up nameplate ratings as if everything ran continuously. A refrigerator rated 150 W contributes about 50 W to a real average because the compressor cycles. Lights are on for part of the evening, not all day. The backup builder exists specifically to produce a defensible average rather than a worst-case sum.
Also decide honestly how long you need. Most grid outages are short; sizing for a rare multi-day event roughly triples the battery cost. Many households are better served by covering 8 to 12 hours well and accepting that a very long outage means running reduced loads.
Your next decision
- Build a load list to get a defensible averageSelected loads with duty cycles instead of a guess.
- Check runtime for a battery size you are already consideringThe same maths in the other direction.
- Understand why capacity does not tell you what you can runEnergy and power are separate constraints.
- Understand the depth-of-discharge assumption in this sizingIt sets how much of the nominal capacity you may use.
Battery tools
- Battery runtime calculatorUsable energy after losses, divided by your real load.
- Build my backupSelect loads, see runtime across four battery sizes.
- 5 kWh battery runtimeRuntime table for a 5 kWh pack at real loads.
- 10 kWh battery runtimeRuntime table for a 10 kWh pack at real loads.
- Battery runtime for a fridgeFridge backup runtime, cycling and surge included.