Electrical units and conversion
Watts to amps calculator
How do you convert watts to amps?
Amps = watts ÷ (volts × power factor). For a resistive load the power factor is 1, so 1,500 W draws 12.50 A at 120 V and 6.52 A at 230 V. For a motor-driven load at a power factor of 0.8 the same 1,500 W draws 15.63 A at 120 V — 25% more current for the same work. The voltage and the power factor are both part of the answer, which is why a single number in isolation is never the whole conversion.
Your inputs
Nominal supply voltage. 120 V and 240 V are the North American single-phase values; most of Europe, the UK and Australia use 230 V.
Sets the power factor used below: 1.00.
12.50
amps at 120 V
1.5 kW drawn at a power factor of 1.00
- Current
- 12.50 A
- Real power
- 1.5 kW
- Apparent power
- 1,500 VA
- Fits a breaker of
- 20 A
Why the power factor is on this page at all
What the breaker column means, and what it does not
Method
- 1500 W ÷ (120 V × 1) = 12.5 A
- 120 V × 12.5 A = 1500 VA apparent power
Engine currentEngine-1.0.0. Values are computed at full precision and rounded only for display.
Assumptions
- Single-phase AC (or DC) at 120 V nominal. Real supply voltage varies, and current moves inversely with it: the same load draws more amps on a sagging supply.
- Power factor of 1, so watts and volt-amps are the same number. This holds for resistive loads only.
- Steady running current. Motor starting current is several times this figure for a fraction of a second and is not included here.
What can change the result?
- Actual supply voltage, which sags under load and varies by region and time of day
- Real power factor of your specific unit, which changes with how heavily it is loaded
- Motor starting current, which is several times the running figure for a fraction of a second
- Whether the nameplate lists maximum draw or typical draw — most list the maximum
Watts to amps at the common supply voltages
Resistive loads only, where the power factor is 1. Read down a column to see why the same appliance rating produces roughly half the current on a 230 V supply as on a 120 V one: the current falls in direct proportion to the voltage, while the work done stays the same.
| Power | 120 V | 230 V | 240 V |
|---|---|---|---|
| 100 W | 0.83 A | 0.43 A | 0.42 A |
| 500 W | 4.17 A | 2.17 A | 2.08 A |
| 1,000 W | 8.33 A | 4.35 A | 4.17 A |
| 1,500 W | 12.50 A | 6.52 A | 6.25 A |
| 2,000 W | 16.67 A | 8.70 A | 8.33 A |
| 3,000 W | 25.00 A | 13.04 A | 12.50 A |
| 5,000 W | 41.67 A | 21.74 A | 20.83 A |
The same 1,000 W, three different currents
Most watts-to-amps converters divide by the voltage and stop. That is correct for a heater and wrong for a fridge. Watts measure work actually done; the supply has to deliver volt-amps, and for anything with a motor in it those two numbers are not the same. The last column is the extra current that upstream equipment must carry, even though the real power is unchanged.
| Load type | Power factor | Current | Apparent power | Extra current vs PF 1 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Resistive | 1.00 | 8.33 A | 1,000 VA | +0.0% |
| Motor-driven | 0.80 | 10.42 A | 1,250 VA | +25.0% |
| Switch-mode electronics | 0.95 | 8.77 A | 1,053 VA | +5.3% |
What this page does not tell you
It does not size a circuit. The engine reports the smallest common breaker whose continuous-load allowance of 80% covers the current, because that is a useful sanity check, but a real circuit also depends on conductor size, cable run length, ambient temperature, grouping with other cables, what else shares the circuit, and the code in force where you live. Treat the figure as arithmetic that tells you when something is obviously too big for a circuit, never as a design.
It also reports steady running current. A motor drawing 1.56 A while running can pull several times that for a fraction of a second at start-up. That surge rarely trips a breaker, because breakers tolerate brief overloads by design, but it matters a great deal for inverters and generators, which do not.
Your next decision
- How many amps does a refrigerator use?The same conversion applied to the load people ask about most, including the start surge.
- Turn those watts into a monthly costAmps tell you what the circuit sees; kWh tell you what the bill sees.
- Size a generator against running and surge wattsWhere the start surge this page excludes becomes the deciding number.
Electrical units and conversion
- Refrigerator ampsThree correct answers — running, surge and average — and when each one applies.
- BTU to wattsBtu/h is cooling capacity; watts drawn depend on efficiency, not on 3.412.
- Ah → kWhAmp-hours and voltage to stored energy — exact conversion.
- kWh → AhStored energy back to amp-hours at your system voltage.
- Wh → AhWh ÷ V, with the voltage that makes the answer meaningful.
- Ah → WhAh × V, and why the same Ah rating means four different batteries.