Electrical units and conversion
How many amps does a refrigerator use?
How many amps does a refrigerator use?
A typical full-size household refrigerator draws about 1.6 A at 120 V or 0.8 A at 230 V while its compressor is actually running, based on 150 W of compressor input power at a motor power factor of 0.80. Across the normal range of 80 W to 250 W that is 0.8–2.6 A at 120 V. But the compressor only runs about 35% of the time, so the average current over a day is nearer 0.5 A — and for a fraction of a second at each start it spikes to roughly 8 A. Those are three different correct answers to the same question, and which one you need depends on what you are sizing.
The three numbers, side by side
| State | Input power | Amps at 120 V | Amps at 230 V |
|---|---|---|---|
| Running, low end of the range | 80 W | 0.83 A | 0.43 A |
| Running, typical | 150 W | 1.56 A | 0.82 A |
| Running, high end of the range | 250 W | 2.60 A | 1.36 A |
| Compressor start surge | 800 W | 8.3 A | 4.3 A |
Which number do you actually need?
Why the nameplate reads higher than this
Duty cycle is the part the other answers leave out
A refrigerator is plugged in for all 24 hours but its compressor is not. It cycles: it pulls the cabinet down to temperature, shuts off, and restarts when the cabinet warms. A typical unit runs somewhere between 25% and 45% of the time. That is why the current is genuinely 1.6 A when you measure it with a clamp meter during a compressor run, and genuinely 0.5 A when you average it over a day. Neither reading is wrong; they are answers to different questions.
The power factor matters here for the same reason. A compressor is an induction motor, so part of the current it draws magnetises the motor and does no work. At a power factor of 0.80, 150 W of real work needs 1.56 A rather than the 1.25 A that a plain watts ÷ volts division would give — about 25% more current for the same cooling. Converters that omit the power factor understate a fridge by roughly that margin.
Run the numbers for your own unit
Enter the wattage from your own appliance, or its nameplate current to work backwards to watts. Keep the load type set to motor-driven for anything with a compressor in it.
Your inputs
Nominal supply voltage. 120 V and 240 V are the North American single-phase values; most of Europe, the UK and Australia use 230 V.
Sets the power factor used below: 1.00.
12.50
amps at 120 V
1.5 kW drawn at a power factor of 1.00
- Current
- 12.50 A
- Real power
- 1.5 kW
- Apparent power
- 1,500 VA
- Fits a breaker of
- 20 A
Why the power factor is on this page at all
What the breaker column means, and what it does not
Method
- 1500 W ÷ (120 V × 1) = 12.5 A
- 120 V × 12.5 A = 1500 VA apparent power
Engine currentEngine-1.0.0. Values are computed at full precision and rounded only for display.
Assumptions
- Single-phase AC (or DC) at 120 V nominal. Real supply voltage varies, and current moves inversely with it: the same load draws more amps on a sagging supply.
- Power factor of 1, so watts and volt-amps are the same number. This holds for resistive loads only.
- Steady running current. Motor starting current is several times this figure for a fraction of a second and is not included here.
What can change the result?
- Actual supply voltage, which sags under load and varies by region and time of day
- Real power factor of your specific unit, which changes with how heavily it is loaded
- Motor starting current, which is several times the running figure for a fraction of a second
- Whether the nameplate lists maximum draw or typical draw — most list the maximum
Your next decision
- What a refrigerator costs to run per monthThe same duty cycle, turned into kWh and money instead of amps.
- How long a battery will run a fridgeWhere the start surge stops being trivia and starts deciding the inverter.
- Convert watts to amps for any other loadThe general form of the conversion, across supply voltages and load types.
Electrical units and conversion
- Watts to amps calculatorWatts ÷ (volts × power factor), and why a motor breaks the simple version.
- BTU to wattsBtu/h is cooling capacity; watts drawn depend on efficiency, not on 3.412.
- Ah → kWhAmp-hours and voltage to stored energy — exact conversion.
- kWh → AhStored energy back to amp-hours at your system voltage.
- Wh → AhWh ÷ V, with the voltage that makes the answer meaningful.
- Ah → WhAh × V, and why the same Ah rating means four different batteries.